Hiking, climbing, and trekking during winter take some serious effort. First, you need to build up your strength and endurance. Next, you need gear. Hiking traction gear, mountaineering boots, 4 season tents, and winter sleeping bags are among those pieces of gear you must get. Here we present you with 15 of the best ice axes on the market. From glacier travel to ski mountaineering and climbing technical ice.
Climb to new heights with the help of our top-rated ice axes. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced mountaineer, we’ve got just what you need to take your skills to the next level
We’ve also gathered all the necessary information about them so you’ll make an educated decision on how to choose some of the best mountaineers’ ice axes that suit your budget and activities.
Let’s dig right into it.
See our comparison table and buying advice
below the picks.
Table of contents
- Our Picks for the Best Ice Axes on the Market
- Best All-Around Ice Axe
- Best for Glacier Travel
- Best for Technical Ice Climbing
- Best Budget Ice Axe:
- Best Modular Ice Axe:
- Lightweight Ice Axe
- Best Hybrid Ice Axe
- Best Technical Ice Axe
- Best Low Angle Mountaineering Ice Tool
- Best Ski Mountaineering Ice Tool
- Best for Glacier Travel
- Best Technical Mountaineering Tool
- Most Expensive Ice Axe
- Mountaineering Ice Axe: Buyer’s Advice
- Comparison Guide to Ice Axes
- Mountaineering Ice Axes vs. Technical Ice Tools
- Anatomy of an Ice Axe
- Ice Axe Material
- Pick Curve
- Length
- Weight
- Shaft Design
- Ice Tool Head
- Adze Vs Hammer
- Modular or Non-Modular
- Carabiner or Leash Compatibility
- Understanding the Different Ice Axe Models
- Terrain
- Best Mountaineering Ice Axe: PETZL Summit Evo
- Trekking Made Easier: Top Picks for Hiking Gear and Sleeping Bags
Our Picks for the Best Ice Axes on the Market
- Best All Round Ice Axe: Petzel Summit Evo
- Best Budget Ice Axe: CAMP Neve Ice Axe
- Best Hybrid Ice Axe– Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe–
- Best Technical Mountaineering Tool- PETZL Quark Ice Tool–
Best All-Around Ice Axe
1. Petzl Summit Evo
- Amazon price
- Best for classic mountaineering
- Length (inches): 20.5 to 26
- Weight (ounces): 14 to 15.9
- Anodized aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head and spike
- TPU handle
- Curved shaft
- Non-modular
Check prices: Amazon: 52 cm and 59 cm, Backcountry 52 cm, 59 cm, 66 cm
Let’s start with a great, all-around ice axe: The Petzl Summit Evo. It is available in three lengths, ranging from 20.5 to 26 inches.
The Summit Evo ice axe features a shaft made of anodized aluminum. So, rust is something that you don’t need to worry about. Despite being made of aluminum, the Petzl Summit Evo weighs around 14 to 15.9 ounces depending on the size you choose.
While it’s not the lightest axe option out there, the extra weight yields enough anchoring power to stop you from sliding down steep slopes.
When climbing, the Summit Evo shaft design features a bent head, which gives more clearance when swinging the ice axe while the lower section is straighter and enables fast penetration in steep snow. Plus, the serrated pick ensures a secure hold while in a descent support position, piolet-rampe mode. Both the head and spike are equipped with holes for clipping carabiners, leashes, and slings!
The hardy stainless steel spike provides very good penetration into difficult snow and piolet-canne mode. It’s sharp edges cut through both ice and snow without breaking a sweat. However, it’s quite small and wears fairly quickly.
What we like:
- Curved upper shaft
- Durable stainless steel head
- Anodized aluminum shaft
- Versatile
- Holes in head and spike for carabiners
What We Don’t Like:
- Fairly heavy
- The stainless steel spike and TPU handle cover wear out quickly
Best for Glacier Travel
2. Grivel G1+ SA Ice Axe With Leash
- Amazon prices: –
- Best for ice trekking
- Length (inches): 26 and 29.1
- Weight (ounces): 16
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head and spike
- Non-modular
- Fairly straight shaft
- Lanyard
Check prices on: Amazon Grivel G1+ SA – 66 cm: & 74 cm:
Simple in design, the Grivel G1+ is a great ice axe choice for those looking for an affordable ice tool for ice trekking. It’s available in two lengths: 26 and 29.1 inches. Both retail for around 100 bucks and feature the same construction.
The Grivel G1+ features an aluminum shaft with a hot-forged pick. Since the pick lacks the classic pointy end of most ice axes, it takes more strength to bury the axe in the ice. On the bright side, it stays in place once you manage to do it. Also, the thick steel pick and adze ensure long-lasting operation.
Our main complaint with the Grivel G1+ is the spike is simply too small. Thus, durability might be an issue in the long run. Thankfully, it is very sharp. So, it cuts through ice and snow with ease.
Even though the Grivel G1+ has a straighter handled shaft, not like the aggressive bend you see in some ice axes one would use for climbing technical ice. Therefore, it isn’t the best option for those looking to engage steeper ice.
What We Like:
- Ergonomic and durable head
- Affordable
- It comes with a lanyard for carrying purposes
- Durable axe
What We Don't like:
- It doesn’t bury in the ice as easy
- Small spike
Best for Technical Ice Climbing
3. Black Diamond Viper Ice Tool
- Amazon price: $199.99
- Best for alpine ice climbing
- Length (inches): 19.7
- Weight (ounces): 20.1 or 21
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless head and spike
- Modular head
- Bent shaft
- TPU grip
The Black Diamond Viper lives to its name. It has an aggressive look that screams alpine climbing. What's more, it's the first modular ice axe too. We like that it's compatible with any current Black Diamond pick and adze. So, you can swap it at any time.
The head features a Chromoly steel pick with several sharp teeth. It sinks easily into both packed snow and hard ice, with a shaft that has a bold bend towards the head. The shape and TPU handle give enough grip and clearance digging snow anchors.
In contrast with most other ice tools, the Viper features a clip on spike. While it might look convenient, it doesn't make any sense to us. Naturally, you can use it to stow the ice axe. But it is too flimsy to support your weight or to make holes in the ice.
What We Like:
- Sturdy head
- Swappable pick
- Easy to swing
What we don't like:
- Heavy
- Useless spike
Best Budget Ice Axe:
4. Cassin CAMP USA Neve Ice Axe
- Amazon price $95.01
- Best for ice hiking, general mountaineering
- Length (inches): 19.7 to 31.5
- Weight (ounces): 16.1 to 22.1
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head and spike
- Fixed head
- Straight shafts
See Camp Neve Ice Axe prices on Backcountry: 57 cm, 65 cm and prices on Amazon: 57 cm and 65 cm
Are you looking for something simple and affordable? Then you should consider the CAMP Neve ice axe. You can choose between six sizes ranging from 19.7 to the longer shaft at 31.5 inches.
It's 2.5mm thick, and it is strong enough to handle your weight if you need to self-arrest. The steel spike also buries with ease into hard snow, ideal for quick, aggressive self arrests. Camp Neve is meant for general mountaineering but not technical icy terrain.
The Chromoly steel pick is sharp enough to sink into the hard ice and snow. Also, the curve in adze, has solid chopping performance and fits nicely in your palm. You can carry this in a self-belay fashion. Indeed, this is why we recommend using the Neve for hiking less steep terrain.
What We Like:
- Several lengths
- Thick pick
- Adjustable lanyard
- Lightweight
What we don't like:
- The adze doesn’t work that well on hard ice
- The paint wears off with time
Best Modular Ice Axe:
5. PETZL Sum'Tec Ice Axe
- Amazon price $95.01
- Best for ice climbing and technical mountaineering
- Length (inches): 21.7
- Weight (ounces): 16.6
- Aluminum shaft
- Both Stainless steel head and spike
- Modular head
- Slightly curved shaft
Check Petzl Sum'Tec Adze prices:- Backcountry, REI, Amazon, Moosejaw
Check Petzl Sum'Tec Hammer prices- Backcountry, REI
The Sum'Tec is among the best all-around ice tools you can find. It has a modular head that is compatible with all PETZL picks and adzes. Excellent multipurpose pike, with extra accessories for technical use. This way, you can adapt to any objective.
Hybrid ice axe useful for pushing on a more technical winter mountaineering made of a few small rock jumps and piolet traction. It is not an ice axe in my opinion, although it provides the possibility of replacing the blade with the dry tooling blade.
The ice tool shaft shows a small inward bend near the top, which protects the hand as you swing the axe toward the ice. In addition, this model has an aluminum pommel on this model with PETZL TRIGREST, which allows you to adjust your hand or finger into any climbing mode, without tools.
What we like:
- Entirely modular head
- The head cuts through snow, rock, and ice alike
- Versatile
- Easy head swapping
- Interchangeable picks to tackle challenges from mixed, snow or icy terrain
- Available in adze or hammer option
What we don't like:
- It sits on the heavier side
- No TPU handle
- Expensive
Lightweight Ice Axe
6. CAMP Corsa Alpine Ice Axe
- Amazon price $116.35
- Best for ski and alpine mountaineering
- Length (inches): 17.7 to 25.6
- Weight (ounces): Up to 9.3
- Aluminum shaft
- Chromoly steelhead
- Fixed head
- Slightly bent shaft
Check CAMP Corsa Alpine Ice Axe on REI, Amazon, Moosejaw
Are you looking for a lightweight axe? Then The CAMP Corsa Alpine hyperlight ice axe is a suitable choice for you. There are three available lengths: 17.7 to 25.6 inches, all of them with a weight under 9.3 ounces.
The aluminum alloy frame is light yet certified Type 1 for digging snow anchors and self-arresting. It also features a lightweight spike plug that prevents snow from entering the shaft. The grip has been machined for improved handling and a small slot in the head that allows for seamless integration with the Corsa leash (sold separately).
Certainly, the CAMP made the Corsa Alpine with the ski and alpine mountaineer in mind. It's also a great choice for glacier travel, where cutting weight is key. That's why the angle shaft is only 1.3 mm thick. Holes in the Chromoly head keeps the weight down, while the serrated pick is strong enough to chop ice as you climb.
The shaft shows a subtle curve that grants enough clearance when swinging the ice axe. So far, so good, right? Since the Corsa Alpine is so light and slim, it is not very reliable for self-arresting purposes.
What we like:
- One of the lightest ice axe on the market
- Provides decent anchoring in steeper terrain
- Easy to swing
What we don't like:
- Tiny adze
- No spike
- It takes more effort to cut through ice
7. GRIVEL Nepal Self-Arrest Axe with Leash
- Amazon price $107.95
- Best for Classic mountaineering and ice walks
- Length (inches): 22.8 to 29
- Weight (ounces): Around 15.5
- Aluminum shaft
- Steel, Hot Forged blade
- Fixed head
- Slight curve shaft
The Grivel Nepal S.A. Ice Axe has been created to make self-arresting easier, faster, and more secure than ever before. Given the fact that offering a solid self-arrest is one of your axe's key functions, it's not a bad thing at all.
The Grivel Nepal looks and feels durable and strong enough to cope with the toughest conditions. Its shaft comes in three different lengths, ranging from 22.8 to 29 inches while the Plus version comes with a rubber handle for better grip.
The red shaft has a slight curve, designed to facilitate the self-arrest technique. But it is not enough for technical ice climbing. Your hand might feel a bit too close to the blade. The spike is also made of aluminum and is not as durable as the steel ones. This device, when used correctly, can assist in self-arrest. It is not intended for vertical ice climbing and should only be used as a multi-purpose mountaineering axe.
The adze is small and functional but difficult to cut through thicker ice with it. The Grivel Nepal comes with a convenient lanyard tied at the head, welcome addition, though it would have been better if it was a bit longer. You can remove it and use a carabiner instead.
The Grivel Nepal S.A.is one of the cheaper axes on the market, which makes it a good option.
What we like:
- Solid build
- Strong and reliable pick
- Comfortable to carry
What we don't like:
- The adze is too dull to cut through the ice
- The standard version doesn’t come with a grip
Best Hybrid Ice Axe
8. Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe
- Amazon price $209.67
- Best for technical mountaineering
- Length (inches): 19.7 to 25.2
- Weight (ounces): Up to 20.3
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head with integrated adze or hammer
- Modular head
- Asymmetrical angled shaft
Check Black Diamond Venom Ice Axe Adze on Amazon, Backcountry
The Black Diamond Venom ice axe is the one tool to have for technical ski mountaineering missions, classic glacier routes, and moderate snow climbs with short cruxes. It combines the technical accuracy of an ice tool with the traditional alpine function of a piolet.
The Venom ice axe features an asymmetrical angled shaft that allows you to reach those tiny cracks on the ice while climbing steep terrain. It also has a large, sharp spike at the base of the shaft, which cuts the ice effortlessly.
The quick lock pommel is comfortable on long periods of alpine slab ice with a quick and simple adjustment when changing climbing modes. Also, the Black Diamond Venom has a large, sharp spike at the shaft's bottom, which cuts the ice effortlessly.
The hammer version comes with Mountain Tech pick while the Adze comes with Mountain Classic pick. Either way, you can also swap tools at any time since the ice axe head is removable. The handle comes with a thick TPU covering at the end and features a sliding pommel for enhanced grip. But beware. It tends to slide without releasing the trigger.
What we like:
- Suitable for technical and non-technical mountaineering alike
- Modular head
- Secure grip
- Fully interchangeable picks
What we don't like:
- Flimsy sliding pommel
- Premium price tag
Best Technical Ice Axe
9. PETZL Gully Ice Ice Axe
- Amazon price $189.95
- Best for technical mountaineering and steep skiing
- Length (inches): 17.7
- Weight (ounces): 9.9
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head
- Non-modular head
- Slightly curved shaft
Are you looking for super light gear? Then the Petzl Gully Technical ice axe for you. It weighs 9.9 ounces, making it one of the lightest ice axes on this list. Additionally, is also quite compact, and intended for technical mountaineering or technical ice climbing.
The performance demanded on technical sections is aided by the tapered banana-shaped pick and the TRIGREST handrest. What's more, this feature allows you to quickly switch its position if you hit a technical climb on steep ice, without needing any extra tools.
The technical tool features a slightly angled shaft. This way, you will have more clearance to strike the ice. In addition, the head comes with a non-modular pick and adze. In contrast, the latter is quite small. and is only useful for clearing holds and nothing else.
PETZL opted for cutting the shaft at an angle to create a beveled spike makes it simple to transport the ice axe in a bag without harming your mountaineering pack.
What we like:
- Lightweight axe
- Compact
- Slider pommel
What we don't like:
- Not great for self-arresting purposes
- Small adze
Best Low Angle Mountaineering Ice Tool
10. Cassin X-All Mountain Hammer ($249.95)
Features:
- Best for Alpine climbing and low-angle ice climbing
- Length (inches): 18.8
- Weight (ounces): 20.3
- Aluminum shaft
- Chromoly steel head
- Modular head
- Curved shaft
Check Cassin X-All Hammer price on Amazon,
Ok. Let's start by saying that if you are not looking to tackle the toughest ice routes, then you can skip this bad boy.
The Cassin X-All is the ideal choice for low-angle and vertical ice climbing. Not only does it have an aggressive bend, that gives enough clearance to draw the Chromoly steel pick deep into the ice, it also gives more leverage when it is time to get it out of the hole.
The ice tool is fantastic! Even from the first swing, it sticks feel both natural and wonderful in hand,. And they have a favorable angle for planting the pick firmly into the ice. Even with mixed climbing and repeated hits against a rock a few times, they performed admirably. Also, your knuckles are protected with the curve shaft design.
The shaft is 2.5 mm thick. However, you can choose between a hammer or an adze configuration since Cassin X-All comes with a modular head. It also comes with a full, adjustable plastic pommel. That said, you can configure any of their three parts independently to achieve comfort and grip.
What we like:
- Modular head
- Adjustable pommel
- Durable pick
- Easy to swing and release from the ice
What we don't like:
- Pricey
- Heavy
11. Black Diamond Raven Ice Tool
- Amazon price $99.95
- Best for trekking
- Length (inches): 23.6 and 29.5
- Weight (ounces): Up to 16.9
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head
- Non-modular head
- Straight shaft
Check Black Diamond Raven on Amazon, REI, Moosejaw, Backcountry
The Black Diamond Raven Ice Tool is a classic mountaineering axe that has been used on all kinds of climbs for decades. This axe has a highly balanced swing weight! When swinging this tool, you don't feel like you're flinging a lot of weight around.
You chop both ice and snow with ease. The small bend in the shaft provides clearance for your hand to avoid contacting the snow when inserting the pick into the feature you are attempting to climb (especially useful if you're climbing steep terrain). While the teeth are ideal when it comes to self-arrest.
The improved pick and adze shape allows for more secure placements while the updated spike that slides through snow provides you with support with enhanced plunge-ability. A trapezoidal cross-section is added to the robust aircraft-grade shaft for a more comfortable, superior grip.
One of the most popular ice axes, the Black Diamond Raven ice tool is a great starting point for beginners.
What we like:
- Ideal for self-arrest maneuvers
- Affordable
- Ergonomic head
What we don't like:
- Not for steep terrain
- It doesn’t handle packed ice well
Best Ski Mountaineering Ice Tool
12. CAMP Corsa Nanotech
- Amazon price $155.15
- Best for ski mountaineering
- Length (inches): 19.7, 23.6, and 27.6
- Weight (ounces): Up to 10
- 7075 Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head
- Non-modular head
- Slightly curved shaft
Check CAMP Corsa Nanotech Ice Axe on Amazon, REI, Moosejaw, Backcountry
The CAMP Corsa Nanotech is suitable for a wide range of conditions ranging from firm snow to hard ice. In addition, the partially bent 1.3 mm aluminum shaft gives extra clearance. But it doesn't temper with walking, making it suitable for climbing, trekking, and self-arresting.
CAMP used their Sandvik Nanoflex steel alloy to make the head and spike of the Corsa Nanotech. The resulting metal is 70% stronger and 20% lighter than regular steel. Still, what's important is that the pick tears through snow and ice easily, which the steel spike does.
The machined grip is good enough for ski mountaineering and basic glacier routes, but we don't recommend using the CAMP Corsa Nanotech for vertical ice, steep slopes, or mixed terrain. Besides, the pick shape lacks the curve needed to cope with technical routes. Also, it lacks a rubber grip, making the Corsa Nanotech difficult to carry since the head isn't ergonomic.
What we like:
- Versatile
- Different lengths available
- Light
What we don't like:
- Machined grip
- Cumbersome
Best for Glacier Travel
13. PETZL Glacier Ice Axe
Features:
- Amazon price $109.95
- Best for glacier travel
- Length (inches): 23.6, 26.8, and 29.5
- Weight (ounces): Up to 13.8
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head
- Non-modular head
- Straight shaft
Check Petzl Glacier Ice Axe on REI, Moosejaw, Feathered Friends Backcountry
Going back to the affordable range, we have the PETZL Glacier. It is pretty much like the Black Diamond Raven ice tool we've reviewed before in terms of design.
The PETZL Glacier is available in three unique lengths: 23.6, 26.8, and 29.5. Naturally, the weight will increase with size up to 13.8. Still, it sits on the lighter side of the spectrum compared with other options of similar size. That's why it is an ideal ice tool for snow and ice hiking or glacier travel.
The 7075 aluminum handle features a machined grip. Since it has no curves, the PETZL Glacier Ice Axe is not the best option for highly technical routes or low-angle ice climbing. Nevertheless, the tempered steel pick and adze penetrate ice without breaking a sweat. You can dig snow anchors in no time.
Both head and steel spike come with large holes to attach a carabiner or lanyard. Besides, you can easily strap the ice tool to your backpack.
What we like:
- Ergonomic head
- Great for building snow anchors
- Lightweight
- Solid adze
What we don't like:
- Not for steep terrain
- Slim spike
14. TRANGO Raptor Ice Tool
- Amazon price $189.95
- Best for technical climbing
- Length (inches): 20
- Weight (ounces): 20.3 and 22.6 (with weights)
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel pick
- Modular, replaceable head
- Curved shaft
See TRANGO Raptor price on Moosejaw, REI, Amazon
The TRANGO Raptor is not a traditional ice axe. First, it has two different built-in grips that aren't adjustable since you won't need to move anything while hanging high on the ice. In addition, the TRANGO Raptor comes with removable weights. Yes, you read that right. More weight gives you more power for penetrating hard snow and ice.
The TRANGO Raptor ice tool comes with a bent shaft and sturdy steel pick that can penetrate ice. A real robust spike for the piolet cane is included, as a result, this allows you to perform unusual moves and tops out with ease.
After being sharpened out of the box, the picks needed a lot of maintenance but functioned well. The serrated head features no adze nor hammer but the shape allows you to reach even the tiniest cracks. In addition, it's carabiner-compatible thanks to the built-in hole at the base of the handle so you can attach a leash to it.
Great tool for a great price.
What we like:
- Carabiner-compatible
- Adjustable weight
- Sturdy pick
- Dual handle
What we don't like:
- No adze nor hammer
- Heavy
Best Technical Mountaineering Tool
15. PETZL Quark Ice Tool
- Amazon price
- Best for technical and mixed climbing
- Length (inches): 19.3
- Weight (ounces): 19.4
- Aluminum shaft
- Stainless steel head
- Modular head
- Curved shaft
See Petzl Quark Adze Ice Tool price on: Moosejaw, Amazon
See Petzl Quark Adze Hammer price on: REI Moosejaw
The PETZL Quark is among the best technical ice tools you can get. The shaft rocks a significant curve that gives enough clearance for striking ice and snow. It's swing felt fantastic, felt effortless and natural at any steep ice pitch, whether it's a simple grade 3 climb or something more difficult. It also sliced through ice as if it were butter, and stuck on the first swing most of the time.
The plastic and fiberglass composite handle comes with PETZL's Trigrest and folding Griprest, which is a surprisingly useful feature. They strengthen the grip over the tool to cope with the hardest climbs. You can adjust both of them so you can find the best grip for certain objectives.
There are a few minor frustrations. A feature that allows the pinky rest to fold is great for plunging, but it may inadvertently fold when you hit it against ice on route, and you lose your pinky rest. If you don't care for the index finger support, then there's no way to remove it.
If you want to climb difficult ice and alpine with one tool, then the Petzl Quark is one of the best ice axes.
What we like:
- Comfortable handle
- Durable head
- The shaft provides enough clearance
- Adjustable handle
What we don't like:
- Small carabiner holes
- It is not comfortable to carry
- Delicate spike
Most Expensive Ice Axe
16. Trango Kestral Ice Tool
- Amazon price $499.95
- Best for steep ice and technical mixed climbing
- Length (inches): 22
- Weight (ounces): 21.2
- Carbon fiber/Kevlar shaft
- Stainless steel head
- Modular head
- Dual pommel grips for increased clearance and maneuverability.
Check Trango Kestral price on Amazon, Moosejaw, Backcountry
The Trango Kestral is the most expensive ice axe on this list. But with a price tag like that, you would expect some good features. And boy, does it deliver! To point out, it has a modular stainless steel head that accepts mixed picks (sold separately) for rock-intensive routes.
The shaft angle is intended for balanced performance on both ice and mixed routes. The curved shaft provides the clearance necessary when swinging the axe high on vertical ice. Its dual pommel grips for increased clearance and maneuverability. The first allows for choking up on the axe for better precision, while the second is a traditional grip.
However, it is not the lightest ice axe on this list. It tips the scales at 21.2 ounces, making it a better choice for experienced climbers.
What we like:
- Lightweight
- Modular head
- Carbon fiber shaft
- Dual pommel grips, no grip tape needed
- Shorter length options
What we don't like:
- Expensive
- Not the lightest ice axe
Mountaineering Ice Axe: Buyer's Advice
Are you in the market for a brand new ice axe? If so, then you should take a look at this section. Here we will talk long and wide about these ice tools. Therefore, you can choose the best ice axe model to suit your current needs.
We will cover everything from length and materials to weight and head design. Let's get down to business.
Comparison Guide to Ice Axes
Mountaineering Ice Axes vs. Technical Ice Tools
Although numerous people use the phrase "ice axe" freely to describe both mountaineering and vertical ice/mixed climbing tools, technically they have distinct names; ice tools, not ice axes, are used for technical ice climbing.
The distinction between ice axes and ice tools lies in their size. Because they are used primarily for traveling across less-steep ground (similar to a cane or more aggressive trekking pole) or as a snow anchor, mountaineering axes are considerably longer than ice tools. The straight shaft of a mountaineering axe also gives better leverage for self
Technical ice tools are also shorter and have curved shafts. A curved shaft makes it simpler to generate a more effective swing and excellent pick placement in the ice.
Anatomy of an Ice Axe
Before we continue, here's a quick rundown of the anatomy of ice axes and tools. Ice axes are different from backpacking hatches because they have a sharpened cutting edge on the pick, while hatches don't.
Ice axes and tools have a different design than traditional ice axes. To illustrate, there are two kinds of picks: one with a pointed end and one with an edge that curves in toward the handle. Ice axe heads come in various shapes depending on their intended use.
Heads:
The heads are the business end of the ice axe, and it's where the pick and adze are located. In fact, one of the most common shapes are a classic alpine head, which has a pointed pick and straight adze. Additionally, there is a technical ice tool head, which has a curved pick and no adze.
Adze/hammer
Ice axes always have an adze on the opposite side of the pick, while ice tools will either have an adze or a hammer.
Carabiner hole
The name says it all: you may attach the axe/tool to a carabiner on your harness for safekeeping by using the hole at the top. This is also where you would attach a leash.
Shaft
Axes used in mountaineering are straight, while ice tools having curved shafts (although some versions have a tiny curve). Shafts are most often constructed of aluminum, steel, or carbon.
Pick
The component you swing into the ice is known as the pick of an ice tool. The pick is also used in mountaineering when performing a self-arrest with a climbing axe.
Spike
Is a small, sharp metal point that aids balance when walking on ice and is found on all mountaineering axes and some ice tools. (Because walking isn't the main purpose of certain ice tools, they don't have one.)
Shaft Grip
The shaft grip is the area of the shaft where you hold the axe/tool. It is generally wrapped in rubber or TPU, or sprayed with epoxy for extra grip.
Ice Axe Material
What are ice axes made of?
The shafts of mountaineering axes are made of aluminum, forged steel, Chromoly steel, or carbon. Carbon is the lightest and most expensive option, but it can also be the most brittle. Aluminum is both strong and lightweight, making it a popular choice for shafts. Steel is the strongest material but also the heaviest.
Likewise, the head of an ice axe can be made of aluminum, steel, or titanium.
Steel
When it comes to alpine objectives, steel is king. Not only does this metal provide more durability and versatility than titanium but also allows for better performance in firm conditions like snow or neve, With its advantage of being able self-arrest when swinging into these harder substances.
It's also an excellent choice when more involved alpine objectives need to be taken on, like pounding pickets or chopping steps into firm ice. What's more, it allows you better self-arresting capabilities while swinging into firmer snow/neve (ices).
Aluminum
There are some situations where aluminum is the perfect material, such as early season backpacking, ski mountaineering, or adventure racing. It's light, durable and strong enough to take on minor abuse like pushing through snow or ice without breaking easily. But, it's not meant for heavy-duty tasks such as climbing steep surfaces or pounding ice or too many anchors.
Titanium
Titanium is a strong, lightweight metal that has all of the same applications as steel. It's stronger than aluminum but slightly softer and easier to bend. However, it's the most expensive option. While titanium has similar bite to steels with similar levels of hardness, they only offer minor weight savings over their counterparts made out of steel or aluminum. In summary, they're not necessarily worth paying extra money.
Ice axes and accessories with carbon fiber shafts are available. Carbon is lightweight, incredibly durable, and extremely strong...but it's also rather costly. Unless you need to save weight on your mountaineering excursions or have been ice climbing for a while, it's usually better to choose steel or aluminum tools.
Pick Curve
One of the main differences between mountaineering axes and ice tools is the pick designs. As mentioned before, the pick on an ice tool curves inward toward the handle. This feature makes it easier to generate power when swinging the tool.
Axes used in mountaineering have a straight shaft and a classic alpine head with a pointed pick and straight adze. Compared to technical ice tools, which have a curved shaft and pick and no adze.
There are three types of pick curves: classic, reverse, and neutral. However, the majority of ice axes and tools use either a classic or reverse curve pick. Most mountaineering axes will have a classic curve, which is also sometimes called a positive curve.
Classic Curve (Positive Curve)
The most popular type of general mountaineering axe is the positive curve design. Its pick makes a slight arch curve downward when swung into ice at a higher angle. Thus, this method gives you the ability to climb steeply while also self-arresting, when needed for security on difficult terrain. Or in case you slip going uphill again!
However, the major disadvantage of a traditional (classic or positive) curve is that it is more difficult to clean (extract from the ice), even though they don't get stuck quite so easily as those who use reverse curves, ice axes often need more power because there isn’t any sort offsetting weight distribution towards one side like we see during forward swings; meaning instead pushing down harder through soft ice.
The classic curve is excellent at self-arrest and if you come to a section of steeper ice that needs to be climbed, this pick shape allows you to climb much more securely than a neutral curve would.
Neutral Curve Pick
Best for self-arresting but it isn't as secure when you swing it into the ice. Since the pick has no droop coming from the shaft's head, and offers a smooth feel when self-arresting. There aren't too many ice tools on the market like this.
Reverse curve pick
Also known as reverse positive picks, are considerably easier to remove from the ice. As a result, almost all technical ice tools employ reverse curve picks for this reason. The reverse curve pick is a great choice for climbing ice and steep snow. This design starts trending down like positive curves, but commonly at an increased angle before turning back up to make removal easier on your hands
The downside is that this curve can also make it more difficult to self-arrest. For this reason, ice tools are not typically used for mountaineering. However, if you are comfortable with using it and know how to properly execute a self-arrest, then go for it!
Length
The ice axe length is one of the most relevant features that you should look into. It's measured by the distance from the tip of the axe, to the top of its head is the ice axe sizes, which are given in centimeters.
Choosing The Ice Axe Length
Keep in mind that the following process is not written in stone. But it is a good reference on how long your tool should be.
- To begin with, stand up straight and place your fits as if you were holding an imaginary ice axe.
- Then, measure the distance between your thumb to the ankle bone.
- However, if you have the ice axe in your hand,fFace forward in a relaxed yet upright posture with your arm holding the axe head at your side. Next allow the spike of the axe to hang toward the ground.
- The tip of the spike on a proper-sized axe should be even with your ankle, or an inch above it.
Your ice axe should be about as long as your arm from fingertip to shoulder when your arm is fully extended.
In moderate terrain, you'll want a somewhat longer ice axe than usual. While standing, hold the head of the ice axe (between the pick and adze). The spike should come close to your ankle bone. This allows the spike to dig into the snow while walking without having to bend over excessively.
Choosing The Ice Tool Length
You'll want to look more at the features than its length when purchasing an ice tool. Depending on the route you're planning, you'll need to think about several alternatives. Especially since ice tools come with a variety of different picks for the medium you will be climbing (water ice, alpine ice, mixed ice, or rock).
An adze or hammer are two types of head attachments. Moreover, the shaft can have various angles and handles depending on your preference. From traditional ice tool to the lightest technical tools, each are highly feature-rich and offer specialized solutions to particular climbing issues.
Weight
It matters, not only in terms of portability, durability, and performance while climbing. Let's see why.
A heavy ice axe is desirable when climbing a frozen wall. You will generate more momentum as you swing the tool towards the ice. Therefore, you will be more likely to break the ice and anchor yourself. In addition, a bulky axe is typically more durable.
The main drawback is that they are heavier, making them unsuitable for long hiking and glacier travel. Here, a light model is the best bet.
Shaft Design
The shaft is the piece that holds both the head and spike together. It is also where you grab the tool. There are two main shaft designs: Curved and straight. While you might use both regardless of the activity, your life will be easier if you choose the shaft according to your need.
Straight Shafts
- If you are only using the axe for hiking, glacier travel, or general mountaineering, then you are better off with a straight-shaft ice axe. You can use it as a walking stick for better support, low-angle terrain and it plunges neatly into snow when self-belaying or using the axe as an anchor.
Curved Shafts:
- These have a little bend that allows you to avoid striking your hand on the snow and ice when placing the pick. For steep terrain, curved shafts are preferable because it offers a more ergonomic swinging motion, since ice-climbing axe shafts have a significant curvature
Petzl - Nomic Ice Climbing Tool
Grivel G1 Ice Axe
Shaft Grip
Most ice tools either use molded, plastic, or rubber grips. The first is more common among glacier and hiking ice axes, while the latter two are more common among ice climbing models.
While some models even come with adjustable handles. Particularly, these are ideal for technical routes where having a firm grip over the tool is crucial. The PETZL Quark Ice Tool perfectly illustrates this handle design. Keep in mind that these models are typically more expensive.
Ice Tool Head
Unquestionably, the head is the most useful part of any ice axe. It commonly has two distinctive sections: The pick and the adze or hammer. The first is what you use to anchor yourself as you climb a frozen wall and also useful in self-arresting maneuvers.
Keep in mind that not all picks are built the same. For example, the CAMP Neve Ice Axe rocks a serrated design with a broad end. In contrast, the PETZL Sum'Tec Ice Axe offers several tiny spikes with a pointy end. The first, therefore, is more suitable for hiking, trekking, and non-technical climbing while the latter is better for mixed terrain and technical routes.
Pick Shape
The pick usually has a positive curve, which is also known as a classic curve; this is where the pick makes a small downward arching curve downward. This design is popular because it strikes an ideal balance of steep snow performance and self-arresting.
Adze Vs Hammer
A mountaineering axe will always have an adze, which may be utilized for a variety of things, such as step cutting, digging snow anchors, tent platform reduction, improvising anchor points, and so on. This shovel-like surface also makes an excellent gripping surface when performing self-arrest.
Adzes
These aren't necessarily required when climbing technical ice or mixed routes, although it may be helpful. Instead, many ice tools include a hammer that may be used to drive in pitons. Many climbers prefer to use one adze tool and one hammer tool, but you are free to configure your tools any way you want. Most ice tools have modular heads, so you can replace adzes and hammers as needed, or even remove them entirely if desired to decrease weight.
Hammer
In contrast, ice climbing models commonly use a hammer instead of an adze, like the PETZL Gullyice Ice Axe. While some don't use anything at all. A hammer is ideal for burying ice anchors deep into the ice.
Conversely, some ice tools don't come with anything at the other end. Only technical pick heads are commonly used on highly-technical ice tools such as the PETZL Sum'Tec Ice Axe.
Modular or Non-Modular
Regardless of the head layout, you can choose between modular and non-modular models. The second type is non-replaceable. Therefore, you will need to purchase another axe if you damage or wear out the pick. However, this is highly unlikely.
On the other hand, you can replace both the pick and the adze on ice tools with modular heads. The advantage here is that you don't need to get another axe if you damage or wear the pick out. However, this is not the main advantage.
Cassin X-Dream Alpine Ice Axe $298.95
No products found.
Since you can swap picks on modular axes, you can pick the one that best suits your current needs. For example, technical ice climbing requires a slightly angled pick with tiny spikes. But that pick might not be suitable for ski mountaineering or mixed terrain.
Why Do I Need a Spike?
The spike is on the other end of the ice axe. It penetrates hard snow and ice, and you can use it as an extra support point while walking. You can also plunge the tool into the snow to improvise an anchor. it can be helpful to have spikes on the bottom. Additionally, the spike helps you maintain more control and traction when walking across firm surfaces such as snow-covered rock or frozen turf with protruding cracks that require protection from steep upward slopes (like pesky gully steps)
Carabiner or Leash Compatibility
There will be times that you'll be carrying the axe by hand. But, what happens when you don't? You can stash it in your mountaineering backpack. But, it is better to have it within hand's reach. In fact, that's why some tools come with holes where you can attach a lanyard or carabiner to quickly secure an ice axe to your belt.
Is a leash needed?
Leashes offer both additional protection and contribute to a climber's sense of security. A leash prevents you from losing your ice axe /tools in the event of a fall, whether it's tied to your wrist or your harness. Some ice axes/tools are provided with leashes, whereas others aren't; if necessary, you may purchase them separately (or make your own out of webbing or perlon cord).
Understanding the Different Ice Axe Models
You see, we've taken the time to describe handle design, head layout, and grip arrangement.
Let's look at most other ice axe types and what makes a best ice ax for you.
Classic Mountaineering Axe
These are ideal for glacier routes and reaching the top of steep snow peaks. Therefore, they are not the best for those looking to engage in technical ice climbing or similar activities. But, how do you distinguish a classic ice axe from the rest? The short answer is:
- Length sized from thumb to ankle
- Straight aluminum shaft
- Straight or slightly curved head
- Pick and adze
Classic mountaineering ice tools shafts are thicker as well. Plus, they typically have non-modular heads too.
Hiking or Backpacking Tools
Ice axes are also utilized when trekking on a route that may or will have sections covered with snow or ice. (Ice axes are frequently carried by thru-hikers in early or late season.) Although they are quite similar to Classic mountaineering tools, there are some distinctive features.
In short, a hiking axe looks like this:
- Straight or slightly bent shaft.
- Length sized from thumb to ankle or shorter
- Slightly curved head
- Molded or plastic grip
- Classic length; or up to 10cm shorter
Alpine or Scrambling Ice Axe
Ice axes are also used in alpine climbing where there is snow or ice to climb, and the route may be straight up steeper terrain, using both hands and feet rather than traveling on low-angle ground or crossing steep slopes.
The main difference between the other two is that alpine axes feature a subtle curve in the upper shaft. Also, the bend gives you enough clearance for a more natural swing.
Climbing ice axes typically have:
- Straight shaft; or curved shaft if the axe will frequently be held in the middle and used like a claw if it has a bent shaft.
- It can be up to 10cm shorter if only little chopping is required; but in can be longer if a lot of cutting is needed.
- A traditional-curve pick with a steel head
Technical Climbing Axe
These are meant for scaling frozen waterfalls, icefalls, and ice-covered rock slabs. It's useful to note the distinctions while you shop: Ice-climbing axes are shorter than standard ice axes, feature bent shafts and a head that differs from a conventional ice axe in design (compared to classic ice axes). Axes for vertical ice (slopes greater than 60°) are called "ice tools" and are used by climbers belaying each other.
Technical ice axes look like this:
- Aggressively curved shaft
- Reverse curve pick head
- Modular head
Terrain
Moderate Terrain
If you're headed for moderate terrain, then a straight-shafted axe is sufficient if you are not climbing steep ice. Indeed, the Petzl Glacier is one of the more popular ice axes for several reasons. The straight shaft enables the ice ax to be utilized as a walking stick, while the pick angle and longer shaft work together for optimum leverage when performing a self-arrest.
Steep Terrain
When the terrain gets steeper (an example would beKautz Glacier Route on Mt. Rainier), you'll want a hybrid-style ice ax like the Petzl Sum'tec. This type of ax includes a little bend and a hand rest to a regular ax so it can adapt to varying terrains and slop angles over time.
Hybrid axes also tend to have a flatter pick angle and shape (to allow for effective swing into ice) as well as the ability to swap the adze for a hammer to your needs. You should always carry an appropriate tool with you when hiking or mountaineering in areas where ice axes aren't recommended, such as the Eastern Sierra Nevada of California or the Tetons in Wyoming.
Vertical Terrain
Because the route may need the usage of two axes, generally one hybrid ax and one ice tool; or two ice tools for genuinely vertical terrain and beyond, finding your way up very steep or vertical ground might be difficult. Ice tools are more specialized than hybrid axes: a drooped pick, the capacity to utilize a hammer or adze, a bent shaft, and full hand and finger rest.
A great example of this type of technical tool is the Petzl Quark
Best Mountaineering Ice Axe: PETZL Summit Evo
Although there are many ice tools on this list and many more in the market, the PETZL Summit Evo is today's best ice axe. Its design shape makes it suitable for a wide variety of purposes. For instance, it has a subtly curved shaft, which gives you enough clearance for alpine climbing, as long as you don't engage in highly technical climbs. Moreover, the lower half is straight enough to be used as a walking cane.
The PETZL Summit Evo head is stainless steel, featuring a slight curve that perfectly fits inside your hand, but is on the heavier side. Since it comes with a hole in the head, you can strap a lanyard and attach it to your backpack.
Lastly, the sharp spike easily plunges through hard snow and ice. As you can see, the PETZL Summit Evo is a great all-around axe.
What Ice axes do you use? What would you recommend? Comment below!
Trekking Made Easier: Top Picks for Hiking Gear and Sleeping Bags
Here are some links to our most popular articles:
Last update on 2024-10-22 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API