Often hailed as the “best one-day hike in New Zealand” (if not the world), the Tongariro Crossing is an alpine trek through the active volcanic zone of the central North Island. Your trek will take you past Emerald Lakes and steam vents emitting sulfurous fumes up to Blue Lake and through valleys and past volcanos.
And views! It simply had to be done.
Emerging from our Southern Hemisphere winter hibernation, where, incidentally, I had spent a lot of time working on various aspects of my hiking fitness. Not least the fact that my back was indicating that it had Seen Better Days.
I had not been out in the bush for many months. Well, not properly. I don’t count a 20-kilometer trot around Sydney.
This blog post offers a concise, step-by-step itinerary for a day hike across the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, highlighting key landmarks and timings for an unforgettable and well-organized adventure.
Table of contents
- Mangatepopo Car Park to Soda Springs (~1-1.5 hours)
- Soda Springs to South Crater (~1 hour)
- South Crater to Red Crater (~1 hour)
- Red Crater to Emerald Lakes (~15-20 minutes)
- Emerald Lakes to Blue Lake (~30 minutes)
- Blue Lake to Ketetahi Hut (~1 hr)
- Ketetahi Hut to Ketetahi Car Park (~2 hours)
- The Aftermath
- Quick Facts about the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
- Best Time to Hike
- Getting There
- Day Hiking Itinerary: Tongariro Alpine Crossing
- Summary of Tongariro Alpine Crossing Itinerary
- Conclusion
- FAQs
- Discover the Great Outdoors: Essential Guides to Hiking and Camping
So I dusted off my trusty mountain boots that had seen many successful Kilimanjaro summits – and carried me to Everest Base Camp. It felt good to be loading up my daypack again and heading for the hills.
My research led me to “take it seriously”. The changeable mountain weather conditions can easily make the hike hazardous, and with exposed ridges and loose scree, I had visions of myself hurtling headlong into a bubbling, stinky volcano.
So prepare I certainly did. Taking the Department of Conservation’s advice, I duly packed best hiking clothes to see me from summer heat to winter blizzard.
And “enough” food.
That said, I should mention that as my fitness routine requires that I eat foods that are “good for me” and “healthy. However, there is nothing like a tough day or multi-day hike to encourage me to take along elephantine servings of food not on my daily menu.
New Zealand’s weather is notoriously unpredictable. If the weather forecast predicts adverse conditions, the trail will be closed as a precautionary measure. However, even if the trail is open, it does not necessarily guarantee safety.
I should note a slight cultural difference here: New Zealanders love doing things that most people would consider “highly dangerous” and “threatening to life and limb”.
When a New Zealander cautions that in inclement weather, the crossing can become treacherous, it is certainly imperative to heed their advice. Additionally, employing appropriate transition words can enhance the flow and coherence of the sentence.
What starts as a crystal clear day can rapidly turn wintry. And Search & Rescue takes a dim view of rescuing people from a mountain who are dressed for the beach.
This is the mountains, after all, folks. Moreover, the edgy feeling you get is intensified by the knowledge that the volcano last erupted in 2012.
So after making the 5-hour drive from Auckland to the leafy streets of the small and insignificant town of Turangi, I was ready to hit my bed ahead of a 6 am start.
I prayed to the weather gods that I wasn’t going to get snowed on.
It was a clear morning, cold, with frost on the ground. Overall, I was glad I packed extra layers. I took a shuttle bus to the trailhead – the same one would pick me up on the other side (it’s a “thru-hike”).
The advantage of a shuttle service is that if you miss the last bus, they automatically send Search & Rescue to find you. This offers a valuable sense of security, as it ensures that someone is aware of your whereabouts in case of any unforeseen circumstances. Moreover, utilizing a shuttle service also provides the added benefit of convenience and reliability.
During the half-hour drive to Tongariro National Park, we were treated to breathtaking views of Mt Ruapehu, which still boasted a pristine snow-covered peak. And as if that weren’t enough, we also caught sight of the awe-inspiring Mt Ngauruhoe, renowned for being the inspiration behind the menacing Mt Doom in the Lord of the Rings trilogy.
Enjoying the wilderness, I was somewhat alarmed to arrive at the trail-head where numerous buses were jostling for position.
The queues for the toilets were long, it suddenly felt as though we’d happened into a theme park or something equally horrible.
Note: I would not advise doing this Tongariro Alpine crossing in the height of summer, as there can be over a thousand people on the trail at the weekends!
Probably thanks, in part, to blogs like this one extolling the virtues of this trail.
So much for “wilderness”.
With somewhat dampened enthusiasm, I set off on the trail.
With the sun shining bright and the day looking clear, my spirits were quickly lifted. The snowy peak of Mt Ruapehu loomed white and bright, and the trail was mostly flat…
Mangatepopo Car Park to Soda Springs (~1-1.5 hours)
The first part of the trail is flat or with a gentle incline. Alpine plants predominate, with tussocky grasses and heathers.
Indeed as the morning wore on, the sun quickly burnt off any residual frost.
The trail is typical of New Zealand – well maintained, with boardwalks across the boggy parts (this helps to protect the fragile environment) and not just for hikers’ convenience.
Rounding a corner, we get our first view of Mt Ngauruhoe, looming ominously in the distance. With its perfect stratovolcano shape and the top still adorned with remnants of snow, it is evident how this sacred mountain served as the inspiration for Peter Jackson’s Mt Doom. Additionally, the use of transition words can enhance the flow and coherence of the text.
So far, everything is going well. The hike through the dramatic countryside has been quite enjoyable, and it has given me the chance to make significant progress in depleting my food supplies. Despite having a hearty breakfast, I couldn’t help but think about food.
This part of the Tongariro Alpine crossing trek is by far the easiest. We climb out of the valley and after a couple of uphill sections, there is a flat, rather barren-looking plateau.
The heather at the start of the trail gradually recedes, leaving only the tussocky grasses and rough alpine plants in the moorland zone. Rocks underfoot and scree remind us that we are in a volcanic region.
Soda Springs is a 15-30 minute diversion off the main track – and the toilets mark the end of this section.
Rounding a corner, it’s clear that the easy part is over…
Soda Springs to South Crater (~1 hour)
Through the volcanic rock and scree, we are greeted by this signpost:
“STOP. Are you really prepared to continue your Alpine crossing trek? Is the weather okay? Do you have the right equipment & clothing? Are you fit enough? If you have answered no to any of these questions, then seriously consider turning back”.
Alright, then.
Undeterred, we pressed on, making our way up the Devil’s Staircase. This section, with its steep incline ranging from 1400-1600m, required us to navigate through a landscape of both ancient and modern lava flows. Despite the challenging terrain, our determination remained unwavering.
The track is rough, it’s hard-going and I was out of breath quite quickly. After about an hour of this – with fantastic views down the valley and a peek of Mt Taranaki in the distance, we got to the top.
At this point, I was very glad that there is no “altitude” involved in this hike!
A quick rest to get my breath back was a perfect opportunity for a bit more food. I was enjoying this “eat as much as you like, when you like”.
The Devil’s Staircase is a tough hike. By taking it slowly, enjoying the views and resting when needed – it’s perfectly manageable.
Without a doubt, the views are spectacular, how lucky we were to have such a clear day!
South Crater to Red Crater (~1 hour)
Ah, a nice flat plateau, partially covered with snow. A chance to catch my breath and pretend that the Devil’s Staircase was “easy”.
The dramatic Mt Doom towers over us.
We wanted to climb to the summit of Mt Ngauruhoe, but the previous day, two people were badly injured in a rock slide and it was out of bounds.
Carrying on, enjoying the bleak and inhospitable land, I was feeling well aware of the steep ridge I could see in the distance that would require scaling.
Reaching the ridge, the combination of compacted snow and scree made the trail slippery and I almost fell on my backside a couple of times. I was certainly glad I’d brought my hiking pole!
Moreover, it proved to be an indispensable tool for navigating the challenging terrain. Much more, rugged than the Devil’s Staircase, the trail ascends along slippery and exposed tracks, navigating over rocks with a rather precipitous drop on one side.
Additionally, did I mention that I don’t like heights? Well, I don’t. Which is strange, considering I spend a lot of my time scrambling around at high altitudes.
That said, sections of this path have chains – and with the frost on the ground, we were quite literally hauling ourselves up with our arms, unable to get a proper foothold.
I won’t lie, it was exhausting and only a little bit terrifying at times!
At the top of the ridge, we were starting to heave a big sigh of relief that the worst was over.
But.. oh dear, what’s this? It’s Exposed. Very exposed. A scree slope littered with large rocks, with a steep drop on either side. I hate heights. There I’ve said it. And here I am, preparing to hike along a narrow ridge, one side dropping down into a stinky volcano, and the other… well that side seems to go on forever.
Abandoning my reputation, I decided to proceed through the steeper parts on my hands and knees. I was fully aware of what an idiot I must have looked.
Arriving at Red Crater, I was immediately enveloped by its distinct aroma. Before laying my eyes on it, the scent had already captivated my senses. As I tore my gaze away from the trail I had been carefully observing, a breathtaking panorama unfolded before me. The vistas that stretched out in every direction were so awe-inspiring that words alone cannot do them justice.
Photographs don’t show half of it. Over the Otuere Valley, the Rangipo Desert, out over the Kaimanawa Ranges. How lucky we were to have such a clear day!
The Red Crater – it really is red, from the iron deposits – drops away steeply, deep into the volcano, steam wafts from the fumaroles, it’s like another planet.
Mt Doom watches over, close by now.
Next stop, those glorious Emerald Lakes.
But first… downhill.
Red Crater to Emerald Lakes (~15-20 minutes)
I’ll say it. I hate hiking downhill.
It always seems preferable to the relentlessness of uphill – but loose scree on a slippery slope and I do not get along. As I cling to a rock, easing myself off the lip of the Red Crater, I immediately start to slip.
To illustrate, the descent is exposed, and the only way to remain upright is to crab-step and go very, very slowly.
I know, on Kilimanjaro I “skied” down the scree, fast and furious, crashing frequently.
The steep drops on either side meant this was not an option, and after several hard landings on my backside, I arrived at the Emerald Lakes.
They really are an Emerald color. Their colour comes from leached minerals. Sulphur deposits can be seen on the slopes, and the scent of rotten eggs pervades from the surrounding steam vents.
I had a celebratory sandwich and worried slightly that I was getting low on food.
Emerald Lakes to Blue Lake (~30 minutes)
Yet another brief descent guides us to a muddied and snow-slushy trek across a crater. From this point, we face an uphill climb once more, ultimately reaching the awe-inspiring Blue Lake.
This uphill section is short, and after what I’d been through climbing to Red Crater, nice and easy.
It really is Blue!
A cold acidic lake, sacred in Maori tradition, apparently it is disrespectful to eat or drink on her shores. A blue lake with a bright white “beach” of snow.
By this time we were feeling exhilarated. Knowing the worst of the climbing was behind us, we just reveled in the beauty of the pristine environment.
Feeling strong, we moved on, thinking ahead to that nice glass of wine back in town.
Blue Lake to Ketetahi Hut (~1 hr)
After departing from the Blue Lake, we ascend to the rim of the North Crater, and subsequently descend into the gorge.
The landscape becomes less bleak and the heath and moorland plants are in evidence again.
A few more ups and downs and we get a view of our destination in the distance. And then it starts… the relentless downhill.
Relentless it certainly was. I mentioned I hadn’t worn my hiking boots in several months.
My toenails were crying out in pain, threatening to go black and leave me.
My creaking knees were complaining and it went on.
And on.
The track is well-maintained, and moreover, the alpine zone is truly fascinating, offering breathtaking views over Lake Taupo. However, despite these positive aspects, it’s important to note that the downhill slog was nothing short of a horror.
After the first hour, I’d had enough. I was tired and grumpy. Even eating yet another sandwich didn’t help. My feet hurt and my knees hurt and it was down down down.
Arriving at Ketetahi Hut for a short rest stop, the end felt nigh.
Ketetahi Hut to Ketetahi Car Park (~2 hours)
Oh no, more of the same.
It has to be said, the end of this hike is a beast. The downhill is tedious, it goes on for what seems like hours and is more than a bit tiresome.
The moorland gave way to thicker, heather-type bush and the temperature was warmer, with no icy mountain winds.
The path continues downhill for what feels like hours. Then the forest appears. A dense, montane forest, with a roaring stream through it.
And an ominous sign “if you hear a noise from upstream, do not enter” – it’s a live volcanic area and the Department of Conservation advises you to move quickly and not delay! Oh, great.
Shortly after reaching this point, my spirits started to lift. Not only was the forest incredibly beautiful, but the path also flattened out, allowing my toes and knees to find renewed enjoyment in the hike.
Winding through the forest and over a little bridge, eventually, the hustle and bustle of the car park appears.
I did it! Very happy to have made good time, I could now look forward to getting out of my hiking boots and sipping the inevitable glass of wine.
The Aftermath
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing, in good weather, is a fantastic experience. In poor weather, it could be pretty miserable, if not dangerous.
Whilst the climb to Red Crater is hard, there is a great sense of achievement in getting to the top and seeing the incredible views that this part of New Zealand has to offer.
The walkout can get a bit boring as it feels like you have done what you came to do – and still, the hike goes on. I may have felt differently about the last few hours if my feet weren’t hurting.
Overall – well worth it for an amazing day out!
The next couple of weeks were interesting. Unfortunately, one of my toenails did indeed take flight, and for about four days my body hurt. Clearly, I was not in as good shape as I usually am when I tackle the Summits.
Note to self: don’t underestimate a day hike, just because you’ve been on many multi-day hikes.
Quick Facts about the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
- Length: 12 mile through-hike, allow 6-9 hours
- Location: Tongariro National Park, Manawatu-Wanganui, New Zealand.
- No permits required, and it’s free! You can hike alone or choose to take a guide.
- Starting Elevation (Mangatepopo car park): 1100 m
- Highest Point (Red Crater) Elevation: 1886 m
- Ending Elevation (Ketetahi car park): 800 m
- Side hikes: Soda Springs (15 minutes), Mt Ngauruhoe (3 hours), Mt Tongariro (2 hours)
- Getting there: book a shuttle bus to transport you from your accommodation to the trail head.
Best Time to Hike
The Tongariro Alpine crossing can be completed year-round.
In winter, it’s covered in a blanket of snow. So you need to be proficient with ice-axe, crampons and go with an experienced guide.
(Note: you cannot climb Mt Ngauruhoe in winter).
Spring and Autumn are arguably the best times to tackle the crossing if you want to avoid the summer crowds. However, the weather can be very unpredictable, so prepare yourself with the right gear and hiking clothes.
Early spring sees the mountains still with their snowy mantle and the track may have some remnants of snow underfoot.
Summer is busy. Very busy.
On a bright day the sun can be brutal and temperatures can stretch into the 30’s (centigrade). The weather is more reliable in the summer, although being New Zealand there will be plenty of rainy days!
Tongariro Crossing waterfalls
Getting There
It takes approximately 4 hours to drive south of Auckland to get to the Tongariro Alpine crossing. Also, the Tongariro National Park is near some of the best of New Zealand’s central North Island destinations.
Turangi is the closest town to the Tongariro National Park, and is a lovely place to stay with bars, restaurants, and quaint motels.
Next to the Tongariro river, is a spot popular with fly-fishermen. The nearby hot pools are a great way to relax those sore muscles after a day’s hiking.
A little further afield, Taupo emerges as an excellent option. Nestled on the shores of Lake Taupo, this destination not only offers a plethora of accommodation choices but also provides a wide range of activities, both on land and in the water.
This is an ideal choice, especially if you have a few days to spare. Additionally, it ensures that you won’t find yourself at a loss for things to do in case the weather turns unfavorable during your Tongariro Alpine Crossing adventure.
Since the crossing is a one-way journey, it’s essential to arrange transportation from your accommodation to the trailhead.
In conclusion, Taupo not only offers a picturesque setting but also guarantees a memorable experience with its diverse range of activities and easy access to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing trailhead.
That said, there are several bus companies that can pick you up from your hotel/hostel in Taupo, Turangi, or nearby villages.
Alternatively, you can leave your car at the end-point of the hike and have a one-way shuttle from there to take you to the trailhead – which is cheaper.
The advantage of taking an organized bus service is that they will keep a checklist of who is on the Tongariro Alpine crossing mountain, and if you don’t meet your last bus back – they’ll call search and rescue for you.
Some good options:
- Tongariro Expeditions (also provide guiding services in the winter)
- Adventure HQ
- Mountain Shuttle
Day Hiking Itinerary: Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Morning
- Start Early: Begin at the Mangatepopo Car Park around 7:00 AM.
- Mangatepopo Valley to Soda Springs: Easy trek, enjoy the valley views.
- Soda Springs to South Crater: Steep climb, known as the Devil’s Staircase, leads to stunning South Crater.
Midday
- Cross South Crater: Flat walk with spectacular volcanic landscapes.
- Climb to Red Crater: Highest point of the crossing; breathtaking views.
- Descent to Emerald Lakes: Steep descent, be cautious; enjoy the vividly colored lakes.
Afternoon
- Emerald Lakes to Blue Lake: Short walk, Blue Lake is a sacred Maori site, respect the surroundings.
- Blue Lake to Ketetahi Shelter: Begin descent; enjoy the views of Lake Taupo and steam vents.
- Ketetahi Shelter to Ketetahi Car Park: Final leg; walk through lush forest, end at Ketetahi Car Park around 4:00 PM.
Post-Hike
- Relax and Reflect: Utilize nearby facilities to rest and reflect on the journey.
- Transport Back: Arrange for transport back to your starting point or accommodation.
Summary of Tongariro Alpine Crossing Itinerary
- Start: Mangatepopo Car Park at 7:00 AM.
- Trek to Soda Springs: Easy start, scenic valley.
- Devil’s Staircase to South Crater: Challenging climb, rewarding views.
- Cross South Crater: Flat, surrounded by volcanic features.
- Climb/Descend Red Crater: Reach the highest point, descend to Emerald Lakes.
- Emerald to Blue Lake: Short walk, sacred site.
- Descent to Ketetahi Shelter: View Lake Taupo, pass steam vents.
- Finish at Ketetahi Car Park: Conclude in lush forest, around 4:00 PM.
- Post-Hike Rest: Relax and use nearby facilities.
- Transport: Arrange return to base.
Good to Know
- Assess your hiking fitness: Although you don’t need to be an athlete to complete this trek, it’s important to note that it’s a 7-8 hour hike over sometimes difficult terrain.The uphill sections are steep and taxing, the downhill sections relentless. A reasonably active person with no medical conditions or injuries should be able to complete the Tongariro Alpine crossing.
- Being prepared to change your plans at the last minute is crucial. If the weather is poor, you’ll not only have a miserable time, but it can also potentially be dangerous. It’s important not to underestimate the rapidity with which weather conditions in the mountains can change.
- Take the right gear! (See packing list below) If you don’t have all the gear you need, then it’s possible to rent it from the shuttle-bus companies.
- If you plan to climb Mt Ngauruhoe or Mt Tongariro, it’s best to leave on the “early” bus service (departs Turangi at 6 am) to ensure you’ve got enough time and are not in a hurry.
- Check the weather reports with MetService
- Check volcanic activity with GeoNet – yes, it’s a volcanic region and the last eruption was in 2012! (And then be alarmed when you see just how much earthquake activity happens daily in NZ)
- Respect this fragile environmental zone. Take out any and all trash (there are no trash cans). Do not veer off the trail or trample plant life.
Packing List
- Sturdy hiking boots, preferably with ankle support – the terrain is rocky, the volcanic scree can be slippery. Please leave your flip-flops at home.
- Layers – whilst the start may be warm (t-shirt) it can be bitterly cold as you gain elevation. I recommend a Lightweight hiking layers, a fleece and a Trail jacket in addition to your waterproofs.
- For winter hiking, you’ll need full winter gear, down jacket etc in addition to ice axe and crampons.
- Zip-off convertible hiking pants. Whilst on a hot day you can hike in shorts, if the weather changes, you’ll be glad of the option to wear full-length pants.
- In winter, you’ll need a pair of winter pants and a base layer.
- Waterproofs – absolutely essential. Weather in the mountains can change rapidly, and being cold as well as wet can quickly become dangerous.
- Hat – a brimmed hat to keep the sun off your face, and a beanie to keep you warm on the exposed areas where the mountain wind is icy.
- Trekking pole(s) – optional, but I relied on hiking poles to stay balanced on some of the steeper sections (both up and down)
- Hiking Gaiters – optional, but good for protecting your legs from the dusty volcanic scree.
- Sunscreen – New Zealand’s sun can be brutal, with “burn-time” of less than 3 minutes in summer.
- Polarized hiking glasses
- Cell phone for dialing 111 (the emergency service number in New Zealand).
- Personal first aid kit– for minor scrapes and blisters.
- Map – free from the bus service. The trail is well marked with signs along the way.
- Water – it might be heavy, but there is nowhere to fill your water bottle on the trail. The water from the lakes and streams is not drinkable thanks to volcanic mineral deposits. (2-4 liters recommended)
- Food – all the high-energy snacks you wouldn’t normally eat at home, you’ll need the calories!
- Bug spray (summer only)
- Toilet paper. There are toilets at Soda Springs Hut and then none until Ketetahi Hut.
- Ziplock bags for any garbage – leave no trace people!!
Conclusion
Alright, let’s wrap this up. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing isn’t just a hike; it’s an experience, a chance to connect with nature in one of the most unique landscapes on Earth. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or someone looking to step up their hiking game, this trek offers an unforgettable adventure.
Remember, respect the land, prepare for all weather conditions, and most importantly, enjoy every step of the way.
FAQs
For the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, pack layers for changing weather, plenty of water, snacks, sun protection, and sturdy hiking boots. Also, don’t forget your camera for those breathtaking views, and consider a map or GPS device to stay on track.
Most hikers complete the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in 6 to 8 hours. Your time will depend on your pace, the weather, and how often you stop to soak in the stunning views. Start early to make the most of your day and avoid rushing.
The Crossing is considered challenging due to its length and the alpine environment. It’s suitable for those in good physical condition with some hiking experience. Beginners should prepare thoroughly, consider training, and possibly hike with a guide or an experienced group.
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